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What is Training?

Mindfulness and meditation seem to be 21st century buzz words, with a multitude of apps available to us on our smart devices. We all in...

Form and Function - A View on Aesthetics

I had a fascinating discussion with a fellow head routesetter recently after a stint of travel. The discussion was wide and wandering,...

Youth Nationals - By the Numbers

I had the pleasure of chief setting this years youth nationals at Sydney Indoor Villawood (in Sydneys west), after the original chief...

Majorities and Minorities

It’s been a few months since climbings debut in the Summer Olympics. I would be interested to know how things changed globally after the...

Grades are Dead pt 2.

OK, so, where did we finish? PICA is like RIC, but we have expanded the values, so instead of 1-5, we have 1-7. P (Precision, instead of...

Grades are Dead, Long Live Grades pt.1

Prepare yourselves, we are going on a journey, AND we are discussing one of my favourite things..... numbers. V grades are dead, well at...

The Safest Place in a Pandemic

It seems pretty likely that we will be dealing with the ongoing pain of the global pandemic caused by COVID-19 (or SARS-CoV-2) for a...

What is Good Routesetting?

One of the questions that I think about a lot in my job is ‘what is good routesetting?’ This question is important because as the indoor...

Worried About Your Climbing Return?

Avoiding injury climbing out of lockdown - a short of what I did..... This one’s for my Aussie friends, and having come out and gone into...

The Perfect Edge?

One of the questions that has plagued me as a coach, and likely many other climbers and trainers out there, is what is the best edge size...

Beta Talk with Nikki

I was stoked to do a virtual chat with Niklas Wiechmann while doing my hotel quarantine after coming back from the Tokyo Olympic Games....

Kits and Bits

It's taken me almost a decade to come to grips with what my ultimate routesetting kits looks like. To be honest, I think it will continue...

The Hierarchy of Performance

We are all time poor, from the elite athlete to the weekend warrior. No-one has an infinite amount of resources to spend on training,...

Mark of the Climber

The number of climbers that sport an injury is astounding. Almost as if a climbing related injury is a form of climbing initiation and...

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