Majorities and Minorities

It’s been a few months since climbings debut in the Summer Olympics. I would be interested to know how things changed globally after the...

Grades are Dead pt 2.

OK, so, where did we finish? PICA is like RIC, but we have expanded the values, so instead of 1-5, we have 1-7. P (Precision, instead of...

What is Good Routesetting?

One of the questions that I think about a lot in my job is ‘what is good routesetting?’ This question is important because as the indoor...

The Perfect Edge?

One of the questions that has plagued me as a coach, and likely many other climbers and trainers out there, is what is the best edge size...

Beta Talk with Nikki

I was stoked to do a virtual chat with Niklas Wiechmann while doing my hotel quarantine after coming back from the Tokyo Olympic Games....

Kits and Bits

It's taken me almost a decade to come to grips with what my ultimate routesetting kits looks like. To be honest, I think it will continue...

Mark of the Climber

The number of climbers that sport an injury is astounding. Almost as if a climbing related injury is a form of climbing initiation and...